Ferrari Daytona SP3 1/24 Scale Model Build Guide (AlphaModel)

I. Real Car Overview and Color Scheme

The Ferrari Daytona SP3 is the latest in the "Icona" series of high-performance cars being produced by Ferrari after the Ferrari Monza SP series. 599 examples will be built from 2022 and will be sold for $2.25 million each. The Daytona SP3 is powered by a naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12 that is shared with the 812 Superfast. The SP3 marks the first return of Ferrari to naturally-aspirated, mid-mounted engines for limited edition cars without hybrid electric systems since the Ferrari Enzo, introduced in 2002.

The Ferrari SP3 is available in a wide range of colors, and Alphamodel also provides various color schemes in this 1/24 scale kit. Builders can mix and choose their favorite paint colors according to their preferences. For this build, I selected the matte black 1/24 scale SP3 inspired by Ferrari driver Charles Leclerc. In addition, this product can be built in both open-top and closed-roof configurations, offering a very high degree of freedom for a 1/24 scale display model.

This product also provides a detailed engine structure and a large number of carbon fiber decals. Builders can paint and detail each part based on reference photos of the real car to achieve a highly realistic 1/24 scale replica.

II. Tools Preparation and Parts Inspection

In the production process of this 1/24 scale kit, we need to prepare some essential tools in advance, such as: scriber, paper sandpaper, sponge sandpaper, instant glue, tweezers, scribing knife, hobby knife, photo-etch bending pliers, etc. With the right tools in hand, the overall building experience will be smoother and it becomes much easier for builders to achieve a high-quality 1/24 scale static model.

After opening the product package, take out all the parts bags and the body shell. Since the product may be damaged during transportation by the logistics company, you should first check whether any parts are damaged. The A-pillars, brake calipers, rims and other small parts are more prone to damage. After confirming that the parts are intact, please also check whether the photo-etch sheet is bent or damaged and whether the decals are stained. Once you have confirmed that all standard items are in good condition, you can use detergent or other cleaning agents suitable for resin materials to wash all the parts. Because there is usually a layer of mold release agent on the surface, spraying paint directly without cleaning can cause issues such as fish eyes and poor adhesion leading to peeling. After cleaning, simply let all parts dry thoroughly.

III. 3D Printed Parts, Windshield Options and Photo-Etch

For some parts that are easy to damage or lose, Alphamodel also provides 3D printed parts, which can be used as replacement components or to further enhance the details of each area. Because 3D printed parts usually have finer details than the original cast parts, builders can decide whether to use them according to their actual needs on this 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

Alphamodel also provides two options for the front windshield. Here I recommend using the split-style windshield, because on the real car, the main windshield is separated from the small side windows, and this layout will look more realistic on the 1/24 scale model.

There are many photo-etch parts in this kit, and two pieces are provided for the front center grille so that if one is damaged during the build, you can use the spare. For each photo-etch part, it is recommended to refer to the instruction manual in advance and plan the color separation before painting.

IV. Body Preparation and Scribing

Essential tools for processing the car body and other parts before painting include scribing tools, paper sandpaper, and sponge sandpaper.

Processing the car body requires great patience. First, all panel lines need to be deepened. It is recommended to use a 0.15 mm scribing tool head for general lines, and a 0.1 mm tool head for finer lines. When scribing, keep the tool head parallel to the original panel lines to avoid slipping out of the groove and damaging the surface.

The scribing process should be gentle and gradual. Start by lightly scribing along the line several times. As the depth slowly increases, you can gradually add pressure, but do not engrave too deep to avoid damaging sharp edges and corners on this 1/24 scale body shell.

V. Sanding and Roof Sprue Removal

After deepening the panel lines, use 800-grit sandpaper to smooth the entire body, paying extra attention to the scribed areas. This step will enhance the sharpness of the body lines after painting, which is especially important at 1/24 scale where details are more visible.

Once the whole body is leveled, use 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sponge sandpapers in sequence to gradually remove rough sanding marks and refine the surface. After polishing, remember to use a soft brush to clean away the sanding dust.

The sprue connection on the roof parts needs to be handled carefully. Use high-precision sprue cutters to remove the sprue little by little. Do not cut it off in one go, as uneven force may cause the part to crack or lose material. After cutting, use sandpaper to smooth the area.

VI. Primer, Putty and Black Topcoat

After cleaning the body, you can spray it with a special resin surfacer or water putty. It is recommended to use a gray primer so that any missed areas will be more visible when you later spray the black topcoat.

Using the Tamiya 74522 painting stand, you can also spray paint the interior of the cabin at this stage, which will save one step in the subsequent painting process.

After the putty or primer is fully dry, use 3000 grit sponge sandpaper to lightly polish the surface of the body, removing dust particles and imperfections. Once the surface is smooth and clean, you can spray the black topcoat. At this stage there is no strict requirement for the gloss level of the black, because after applying the decals you will still spray a layer of clear coat to unify the final sheen. It is also important to ensure that the inside of the wheel arches, air intakes and other recessed areas are evenly painted in black. For tight corners that are hard to reach, use low air pressure and a small amount of paint to build up the color gradually. Avoid using heavy coats, otherwise serious paint build-up may occur in other areas, which will be very noticeable on a 1/24 scale model.

VII. Decal Application and Softening

Now you can apply decals to the body shell and other exterior decorative parts. Builders can refer to the decal placement guide on the right side of page four of the instruction manual, select the corresponding decal numbers, and apply them in sequence. You may need some additional tools and consumables as assistance during this process. I recommend using Microscale MI-1 (decal adhesive) and MI-2 (decal softener). By applying softener on complex curved surfaces, you can increase the flexibility of the decal and help it conform more closely to the part.

Please note that decal softener is somewhat corrosive. After brushing softener onto the decal surface, wait about 10 seconds, then use a hot air gun to gently heat the area, and finally use a slightly moistened cotton swab to press and smooth the decal. This helps the decal adhere firmly to the surface and achieve a clean finish at 1/24 scale.

VIII. Protective Clear Coats and Surface Texture

After applying all decals, it is recommended to use a Gunze B514 matte protective spray can to unify the overall gloss of the body and protect both the paint and decals. Because spray cans release a larger amount of paint and the paint particles are bigger than those from a conventional airbrush, the final protective film will be stronger once fully cured. However, using spray cans also requires more control: the fan pattern is wide, so you must avoid building up too much paint in one spot, which could dissolve the underlying topcoat. Spray in light passes, little by little. After each coat, hold the model against the light to check the film thickness. It is safer to let one coat dry before applying the next.

The rear diffuser, side skirts, front lip and similar parts can be sprayed with a semi-gloss clear coat. This creates a subtle contrast with the body’s overall sheen, enhancing the visual texture and presentation of the 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

IX. Carbon Fiber Decals and Panel Line Wash

The No. 38 and No. 35 carbon fiber decals on the front hood can also be sprayed with a semi-gloss clear coat, matching the finish of other carbon fiber parts. Since a protective film will form on the surface after spraying, you need to carefully cut along the edge of each decal with a hobby knife before soaking it in water, and then apply the decal as usual.

Because the panel lines have been deepened, in some areas paint may not fully flow into the grooves, resulting in noticeable color differences. In this case, you can use Tamiya black panel line accent color (87131) to emphasize each panel line. Then use a cotton swab lightly moistened with Tamiya enamel thinner X-20 to wipe off any excess wash. However, this technique requires a very smooth paint surface. If the surface is rough or dusty, the wash will be difficult to clean and may stain the surrounding areas, which is more visible on a 1/24 scale model.

X. Exterior Details and Rear Hood Decoration

The PE91 part with the prancing horse logo needs to be gently pre-bent to match the curvature of the body panel before installation.

The rear hood decorative parts R30 and R32 can be painted in glossy black to create a visual contrast with the matte black body and add more depth to the rear view of the 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

XI. Interior Carbon Fiber Decals and Detail Work

Interior parts that require carbon fiber decals should first be painted with a black topcoat as a base color. Then, follow the manual to apply carbon fiber decals and other decorative decals onto the appropriate parts. This way, even if there are tiny gaps or misalignments in the decal coverage, the black base will not be noticeable on the finished 1/24 scale interior.

Some interior components, such as the steering wheel and shift paddles, are quite small, and their decals require gentle and repeated adjustment to achieve accurate positioning and shape. After confirming the placement by repeated observation, use a hot air gun to gently warm the area and press the decal down to ensure it conforms tightly.

XII. Conclusion

By following the steps above, builders can experience the complete process of assembling the Alphamodel 1/24 scale Ferrari Daytona SP3 kit: from unboxing and inspection, body preparation, sanding and priming, painting, and decal application, all the way to fine detailing and final assembly. With its rich carbon fiber decals, 3D printed replacement parts and extensive photo-etch, this 1/24 scale kit not only offers excellent accuracy but also provides plenty of room for advanced detailing. It is an ideal choice for builders and collectors who are passionate about Ferrari and high-performance sports cars.