Ferrari Daytona SP3 1/24 Scale Model Build Guide (AlphaModel)

I. Real Car Overview and Color Scheme

The Ferrari Daytona SP3 is the latest in the "Icona" series of high-performance cars being produced by Ferrari after the Ferrari Monza SP series. 599 examples will be built from 2022 and will be sold for $2.25 million each. The Daytona SP3 is powered by a naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12 that is shared with the 812 Superfast. The SP3 marks the first return of Ferrari to naturally-aspirated, mid-mounted engines for limited edition cars without hybrid electric systems since the Ferrari Enzo, introduced in 2002.

The Ferrari SP3 is available in a wide range of colors, and Alphamodel also provides various color schemes in this 1/24 scale kit. Builders can mix and choose their favorite paint colors according to their preferences. For this build, I selected the matte black 1/24 scale SP3 inspired by Ferrari driver Charles Leclerc. In addition, this product can be built in both open-top and closed-roof configurations, offering a very high degree of freedom for a 1/24 scale display model.

This product also provides a detailed engine structure and a large number of carbon fiber decals. Builders can paint and detail each part based on reference photos of the real car to achieve a highly realistic 1/24 scale replica.

II. Tools Preparation and Parts Inspection

In the production process of this 1/24 scale kit, we need to prepare some essential tools in advance, such as: scriber, paper sandpaper, sponge sandpaper, instant glue, tweezers, scribing knife, hobby knife, photo-etch bending pliers, etc. With the right tools in hand, the overall building experience will be smoother and it becomes much easier for builders to achieve a high-quality 1/24 scale static model.

After opening the product package, take out all the parts bags and the body shell. Since the product may be damaged during transportation by the logistics company, you should first check whether any parts are damaged. The A-pillars, brake calipers, rims and other small parts are more prone to damage. After confirming that the parts are intact, please also check whether the photo-etch sheet is bent or damaged and whether the decals are stained. Once you have confirmed that all standard items are in good condition, you can use detergent or other cleaning agents suitable for resin materials to wash all the parts. Because there is usually a layer of mold release agent on the surface, spraying paint directly without cleaning can cause issues such as fish eyes and poor adhesion leading to peeling. After cleaning, simply let all parts dry thoroughly.

III. 3D Printed Parts, Windshield Options and Photo-Etch

For some parts that are easy to damage or lose, Alphamodel also provides 3D printed parts, which can be used as replacement components or to further enhance the details of each area. Because 3D printed parts usually have finer details than the original cast parts, builders can decide whether to use them according to their actual needs on this 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

Alphamodel also provides two options for the front windshield. Here I recommend using the split-style windshield, because on the real car, the main windshield is separated from the small side windows, and this layout will look more realistic on the 1/24 scale model.

There are many photo-etch parts in this kit, and two pieces are provided for the front center grille so that if one is damaged during the build, you can use the spare. For each photo-etch part, it is recommended to refer to the instruction manual in advance and plan the color separation before painting.

IV. Body Preparation and Scribing

Essential tools for processing the car body and other parts before painting include scribing tools, paper sandpaper, and sponge sandpaper.

Processing the car body requires great patience. First, all panel lines need to be deepened. It is recommended to use a 0.15 mm scribing tool head for general lines, and a 0.1 mm tool head for finer lines. When scribing, keep the tool head parallel to the original panel lines to avoid slipping out of the groove and damaging the surface.

The scribing process should be gentle and gradual. Start by lightly scribing along the line several times. As the depth slowly increases, you can gradually add pressure, but do not engrave too deep to avoid damaging sharp edges and corners on this 1/24 scale body shell.

V. Sanding and Roof Sprue Removal

After deepening the panel lines, use 800-grit sandpaper to smooth the entire body, paying extra attention to the scribed areas. This step will enhance the sharpness of the body lines after painting, which is especially important at 1/24 scale where details are more visible.

Once the whole body is leveled, use 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sponge sandpapers in sequence to gradually remove rough sanding marks and refine the surface. After polishing, remember to use a soft brush to clean away the sanding dust.

The sprue connection on the roof parts needs to be handled carefully. Use high-precision sprue cutters to remove the sprue little by little. Do not cut it off in one go, as uneven force may cause the part to crack or lose material. After cutting, use sandpaper to smooth the area.

VI. Primer, Putty and Black Topcoat

After cleaning the body, you can spray it with a special resin surfacer or water putty. It is recommended to use a gray primer so that any missed areas will be more visible when you later spray the black topcoat.

Using the Tamiya 74522 painting stand, you can also spray paint the interior of the cabin at this stage, which will save one step in the subsequent painting process.

After the putty or primer is fully dry, use 3000 grit sponge sandpaper to lightly polish the surface of the body, removing dust particles and imperfections. Once the surface is smooth and clean, you can spray the black topcoat. At this stage there is no strict requirement for the gloss level of the black, because after applying the decals you will still spray a layer of clear coat to unify the final sheen. It is also important to ensure that the inside of the wheel arches, air intakes and other recessed areas are evenly painted in black. For tight corners that are hard to reach, use low air pressure and a small amount of paint to build up the color gradually. Avoid using heavy coats, otherwise serious paint build-up may occur in other areas, which will be very noticeable on a 1/24 scale model.

VII. Decal Application and Softening

Now you can apply decals to the body shell and other exterior decorative parts. Builders can refer to the decal placement guide on the right side of page four of the instruction manual, select the corresponding decal numbers, and apply them in sequence. You may need some additional tools and consumables as assistance during this process. I recommend using Microscale MI-1 (decal adhesive) and MI-2 (decal softener). By applying softener on complex curved surfaces, you can increase the flexibility of the decal and help it conform more closely to the part.

Please note that decal softener is somewhat corrosive. After brushing softener onto the decal surface, wait about 10 seconds, then use a hot air gun to gently heat the area, and finally use a slightly moistened cotton swab to press and smooth the decal. This helps the decal adhere firmly to the surface and achieve a clean finish at 1/24 scale.

VIII. Protective Clear Coats and Surface Texture

After applying all decals, it is recommended to use a Gunze B514 matte protective spray can to unify the overall gloss of the body and protect both the paint and decals. Because spray cans release a larger amount of paint and the paint particles are bigger than those from a conventional airbrush, the final protective film will be stronger once fully cured. However, using spray cans also requires more control: the fan pattern is wide, so you must avoid building up too much paint in one spot, which could dissolve the underlying topcoat. Spray in light passes, little by little. After each coat, hold the model against the light to check the film thickness. It is safer to let one coat dry before applying the next.

The rear diffuser, side skirts, front lip and similar parts can be sprayed with a semi-gloss clear coat. This creates a subtle contrast with the body’s overall sheen, enhancing the visual texture and presentation of the 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

IX. Carbon Fiber Decals and Panel Line Wash

The No. 38 and No. 35 carbon fiber decals on the front hood can also be sprayed with a semi-gloss clear coat, matching the finish of other carbon fiber parts. Since a protective film will form on the surface after spraying, you need to carefully cut along the edge of each decal with a hobby knife before soaking it in water, and then apply the decal as usual.

Because the panel lines have been deepened, in some areas paint may not fully flow into the grooves, resulting in noticeable color differences. In this case, you can use Tamiya black panel line accent color (87131) to emphasize each panel line. Then use a cotton swab lightly moistened with Tamiya enamel thinner X-20 to wipe off any excess wash. However, this technique requires a very smooth paint surface. If the surface is rough or dusty, the wash will be difficult to clean and may stain the surrounding areas, which is more visible on a 1/24 scale model.

X. Exterior Details and Rear Hood Decoration

The PE91 part with the prancing horse logo needs to be gently pre-bent to match the curvature of the body panel before installation.

The rear hood decorative parts R30 and R32 can be painted in glossy black to create a visual contrast with the matte black body and add more depth to the rear view of the 1/24 scale Daytona SP3.

XI. Interior Carbon Fiber Decals and Detail Work

Interior parts that require carbon fiber decals should first be painted with a black topcoat as a base color. Then, follow the manual to apply carbon fiber decals and other decorative decals onto the appropriate parts. This way, even if there are tiny gaps or misalignments in the decal coverage, the black base will not be noticeable on the finished 1/24 scale interior.

Some interior components, such as the steering wheel and shift paddles, are quite small, and their decals require gentle and repeated adjustment to achieve accurate positioning and shape. After confirming the placement by repeated observation, use a hot air gun to gently warm the area and press the decal down to ensure it conforms tightly.

XII. Conclusion

By following the steps above, builders can experience the complete process of assembling the Alphamodel 1/24 scale Ferrari Daytona SP3 kit: from unboxing and inspection, body preparation, sanding and priming, painting, and decal application, all the way to fine detailing and final assembly. With its rich carbon fiber decals, 3D printed replacement parts and extensive photo-etch, this 1/24 scale kit not only offers excellent accuracy but also provides plenty of room for advanced detailing. It is an ideal choice for builders and collectors who are passionate about Ferrari and high-performance sports cars.

                                                                            Ferrari Daytona SP3 – AM02-0072 1/24 Scale Final Assembly & Finished Build Showcase

一、Interior Assembly & Detail Showcase

During the interior assembly of the 1/24 scale Ferrari Daytona SP3 – AM02-0072, careful planning and a clean building style will greatly enhance the final presentation.

Steering Wheel & Center Console
Complete all detail painting and decal work on the steering wheel and center console before assembly.
Ensure the steering wheel is correctly aligned with the steering column to avoid visible offset or interference once the cockpit is closed.
Use subtle color variations and different gloss levels on buttons, screens, and trim pieces to create a realistic and layered appearance.

Seat Details
After applying the base color, add highlights and shadows to the seat cushions and backrests to simulate realistic leather or racing seat textures.
Before gluing, check that the locating pins on the seats align accurately with the holes or posts in the floor pan to avoid gaps or looseness.
For safety belts and other small parts, apply glue in very small amounts and in stages to prevent glue overflow that may damage the painted surfaces.

Interior Small Parts & Trim
Instrument panel, door cards, and the central tunnel should be installed strictly following the sequence in the manual to ensure precise fitment.
Always dry-fit complex subassemblies before gluing so you can confirm alignment and contact surfaces.
Use different finishes (matte, semi-gloss, gloss) to distinguish plastic, leather, and metal textures, making the cockpit more visually convincing and detailed.

二、Brake System & Disc Lock Installation

The brake disc lock at the center of the rotor is both a visual focal point and a structurally important detail on this 1/24 scale kit.

Disc Lock Color & Finish
The disc lock in the middle of the brake disc is black.
A semi-gloss or gloss black finish is recommended to represent metal and to create a subtle contrast against the main disc surface.

Gluing the PE Part on the Disc
When sticking the PE on the disc body, be careful not to apply too much instant glue to avoid overflow.
Apply very small amounts of glue on hidden contact points where possible, using a toothpick or fine applicator for precise control.
Always test fit the PE parts first to confirm the exact position, then glue them once you are satisfied with the alignment.

Overall Brake Assembly
After assembling the brake disc and disc lock, test fit the assembly with the wheel rims to check for any interference or misalignment.
If there is minor rubbing or a tight fit, lightly sand or trim the contact areas so that the wheels can rotate smoothly and the stance remains correct.

三、Engine & Radiator Section Assembly

The engine section of the 1/24 scale AM02-0072 kit is one of the most detailed and technically demanding areas. Taking your time here will significantly upgrade the quality of the finished model.

Engine Main Assembly
Assemble the engine step by step, strictly following the order indicated in the manual.
For complex areas with multiple parts, perform a full dry-fit first to understand how the components interact before applying glue.
For smaller parts such as piping, brackets, and fittings, consider using slower-setting glue where some adjustment time is needed.

Oil Tank Position & Glue Control
Assemble the engine part according to the instructions in the manual. The position of the oil tank in the middle and rear part of the engine is more important, because this is the part that can leak out after the overall assembly is completed.
This part is more challenging for the player’s glue dispensing skills. Use only as much glue as necessary to secure the part firmly.
Keep glue strictly within the joint surfaces to prevent visible “leaks” and glossy stains around the oil tank.
Apply glue in several small steps if needed, checking alignment and gaps after each application.

Radiator & Front Engine Structure
Assemble the engine part according to the instructions in the manual, including the radiator and all connecting pipes.
Always dry-fit the radiator with the front structure and surrounding body parts to ensure there is no interference once the bodywork is closed.
Because some parts around the radiator are visible through openings and vents, adding subtle color modulation and metallic accents will make these areas stand out.

Color & Finish Consistency
The whole part is also made of semi-gloss black, giving the engine and related components a realistic mechanical appearance while maintaining overall consistency.
Small bolts, fittings, and metal lines can be picked out in silver or steel tones to enrich the detail without breaking the overall color harmony.

四、Finished Build Overview & Impressions

Once the interior, brake system, engine, and radiator sections are completed and integrated into the chassis and body, the 1/24 scale Ferrari Daytona SP3 – AM02-0072 truly comes to life.

Interior
Rich detail and layered finishes recreate the atmosphere of a high-performance cockpit, with realistic textures on the seats, steering wheel, and controls.

Brakes
The black disc lock and finely detailed brake discs visually highlight the performance character of the Daytona SP3, adding mechanical depth behind the wheels.

Engine & Oil Tank Area
Clean assembly and controlled use of glue around the oil tank and mid–rear engine components directly influence the professional, “no overflow” look of the final build.

Radiator & Front Structure
Carefully aligned and well-finished, these parts not only support the structure but also enhance realism through visible openings and vents.

This 1/24 scale AM02-0072 kit showcases AlphaModel’s strong focus on fine detailing and structural design. With careful glue control, consistent dry-fitting, and thoughtful finishing, builders can achieve a Ferrari Daytona SP3 that is both precise and visually striking on display.

Aston Martin ONE77 1/24 Scale Model Build Guide (AlphaModel)

I. Unpacking and inspection

After opening the Aston Martin packaging, take out all the parts bags and the entire vehicle body. Since there is a risk of damage during the transportation of the product through the logistics company, you should first check whether the parts are missing or damaged. The parts that are more likely to be damaged are the A-pillar of the body shell, brake calipers, wheel rims and other small parts. After confirming that the parts are undamaged, please check whether the etched parts are bent or damaged and whether the water decals are stained. After confirming that all standard items are in good condition, you can start the preparation work for production.

II. Screw lines and polishing the car body

First, observe the various parts of the body shell. There will usually be some unevenness at the bottom of the side skirts. Use sandpaper to smooth it out first. After confirming there are no missing areas, use a 0.15mm stencil cutter to deepen the stencil lines. Although the body shell itself has relatively clear stencil lines, we need to manually deepen them again. This is to create a more three-dimensional effect after completion, and we can consider not using panel lining, using natural shading to show the texture of the stencil areas.

When stenciling, be careful to gradually increase the pressure. First, lightly make a few cuts along the stencil line, then slowly apply pressure. For curved lines, use a curved stencil cutter to deepen the stencil lines. If you don't have a curved stencil cutter, when using a straight stencil cutter, be careful not to go outside the lines to avoid further problems. Also, pay attention to the cutter head angle; do not cut curved stencil lines into straight lines.

After smoothing the entire car body with paper sandpaper, it's necessary to remove any coarse sanding marks using sponge sandpaper. After sanding, you can spray on a layer of putty and then check for any imperfections.

After sanding with paper sandpaper, you can sand it several more times with high-grit sponge sandpaper to make the surface smooth and easier to paint.

III. Printed Parts

Next, you can paint the exterior parts such as the Aston Martin body. For this car, I chose to make it pearl white. The paints you need are gray putty, white putty, milky white (Mr. Hobby C1+C4), and pearl red (Mr. Hobby XC03). Here's a supplement: you can adjust the amount of C4 added to the milky white paint according to your personal preference, but don't add too much. It's safer to add it drop by drop.

V. PE

Ferrari Roma spider 1/24 Scale Model Build Guide (AlphaModel) 

I. Unpacking and inspection

Alphamodel features a corresponding nameplate for each model in the photo-etched parts of every product set. Modelers can paint this nameplate and display it alongside the finished model in a display case, which adds a premium feel.

II. Screw lines and polishing the car body

 First, inspect the various areas of the body shell. There may be some slight unevenness, usually at the bottom of the side skirts. You can start by using sandpaper to level these areas. After confirming there are no issues like missing material, use a 0.15mm scribing tool to deepen the panel lines. Although the body shell's lines are already quite clear, manually deepening them again will enhance the three-dimensional appearance of the finished model. You might also consider skipping a panel line wash and instead using natural shadows to bring out the texture of the scribed lines.

When scribing, pay attention to the pressure applied, starting gently and increasing gradually. First, make a few light passes along the existing line, then slowly apply more pressure. For curved sections, you can use a curved scribing tool to deepen the lines. If you don't have a curved scriber and are using a straight one, be very careful not to scribe outside the lines, as this can create more work. Also, pay close attention to the angle of the tool tip to avoid straightening out curved lines.

III. Printed Parts

For the body color, I use Mr. Hobby C-158 Italian Red. Before spraying the main color, you first need to spray gray surfacer to unify the base color, then spray white surfacer as an undercoat, and finally spray the body color itself. Whether spraying the primer or the main color, you must carefully observe to ensure it is applied evenly. Both of these colors have low coverage, so applying them evenly is absolutely critical.