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1/20 Scale Full Detail Kit Ferrari Daytona SP3 - Alpha Model

1/20 Scale Full Detail Kit Ferrari Daytona SP3 - Alpha Model

  • Saturday, 12 October 2024
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1/20 Scale Full Detail Kit Ferrari Daytona SP3 - Alpha Model

The Ferrari Daytona SP3 is the latest in the "Icona" series of high-performance cars being produced by Ferrari after the Ferrari Monza SP series. 599 examples will be built from 2022 and will be sold for $2.25 million each. The Daytona SP3 is powered by a naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12 that is shared with the 812 Superfast. The SP3 marks the first return of Ferrari to naturally-aspirated, mid-mounted engines for limited edition cars without hybrid electric systems since the Ferrari Enzo, introduced in 2002

The Ferrari SP3 has a variety of colors, and Alphamodel also provides a variety of color schemes. Players can make their favorite color paint according to their preferences. This time I chose the matte black SP3 of Ferrari driver Charles Leclerc. In addition, this product can be made in both convertible and closed states, which can be said to have a very high degree of freedom.

After opening the product package, take out all the parts bags and the car body. Since the product may be damaged during transportation by the logistics company, you should first check whether the parts are damaged. The A-pillars, brake calipers, rims and other small parts are more easily damaged. After confirming that the parts are not damaged, please check whether the etching sheet has any bending or damage and whether the water sticker has any stains. After confirming that all standard items are in good condition, you can use detergent or other oil cleaning agents suitable for resin materials to clean all the parts. Because there is a layer of grease release agent on the surface of the workpiece, if you spray paint directly without cleaning, fish eyes and paint will fade due to lack of adhesion. After cleaning, just dry the water.

For some easily damaged and lost parts, Alphamodel also provides 3D printed parts, which can be used as replacement parts or to improve the details of each part. Because the details of 3D printed parts are better than the original parts, players can choose to make them according to the actual needs.
Alphamodel also provides two solutions for the front windshield. Here I recommend using the split window below, because the front windshield of the real car is separated from the small windows on both sides, which is more realistic.
The etching film is very rich, and two pieces are given for the front center grille, so that if there is damage during the production process, you can choose another piece to use. Each etching film should refer to the position of the instruction manual in advance to perform color separation in advance.


Essential tools for processing the car body and other parts before painting include scoring knives, paper sandpaper, sponge sandpaper, etc.
The processing of the car body requires great patience. First, the lines need to be deepened. It is recommended to use a 0.15mm scoring tool head. A 0.1mm tool head can be used for finer scoring lines. When scoring, the tool head should be parallel to the scoring lines to avoid problems such as scoring out of bounds.
The engraving process should be gentle and slow. First, gently engrave the lines several times. When the depth slowly increases, you can gradually increase the force, but do not engrave too deep to avoid damaging the sharp edges.

After deepening the engraved lines, use 800-grit sandpaper to smooth the entire car, especially the engraved lines. This will enhance the sharpness of the car after subsequent painting.
After the entire vehicle is leveled, use 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 mesh sponge sandpaper to polish off the rough scratches one by one to make the surface smoother. After polishing, remember to use a brush to clean the surface.
The sprue of the roof parts needs to be handled carefully. Use high-precision sprue pliers to cut off the sprue little by little. Be careful not to cut the sprue off all at once as it is easy to cause uneven force and cut off the flesh. Then use sandpaper to smooth the surface.

After cleaning the car body, you can spray it with special resin water putty. It is recommended to use gray primer here so that you can check which parts are not sprayed when spraying black topcoat.
Using the Tamiya 74522 paint station, the interior of the cab can also be spray-painted, saving a step in the subsequent painting process.
After the putty is dry, use 3000 mesh sponge sandpaper to go over the surface of the car body, polish off the fallen dust, make the surface smooth and free of impurities, and then you can spray the black topcoat. There is no requirement for the glossiness of black here, because after the water sticker is applied, you still need to spray a layer of gloss protective paint to unify the glossiness. It should also be noted that the inside of the wheel arch, air intake and other positions should also be evenly sprayed with black paint. If you encounter corners that are difficult to color, you can use low pressure and small paint to slowly color them. Do not spray with large paint, otherwise it will cause serious paint accumulation in other positions.

Now you can apply water stickers to the car shell and other external decorative parts. Players can refer to the water sticker instruction diagram on the right side of the fourth page of the instruction manual to select the corresponding numbered water sticker and apply it. Here you may need corresponding tools and consumables as assistance. I recommend using Microscale's MI-1 (water sticker adhesive) and MI-2 (water sticker softener). After brushing the softener on the complex curved surface, the ductility of the water sticker can be increased, and it can better fit the parts. In addition, the softener is also corrosive to a certain extent. After brushing the softener on the surface of the water sticker, wait for about 10 seconds, then you can use a hot air gun to heat it, and then use a slightly moistened cotton swab to flatten it, and the water sticker can be firmly attached to the surface of the part.
After applying the carbon fiber water stickers on the top of the car, apply the red and white line stickers. The white transparent edges on both sides of the red and white stickers can be cut off in advance with a pen knife for better results.
Since the shape of the side skirt is irregular, the carbon fiber sticker is the most difficult to apply. During the pasting process, you can use a hot air gun several times to gently heat it, continuously adjust the shape, and then press it with a cotton swab.

After applying the water sticker, it is recommended to use Gunze B514 matte protective paint spray can to unify the gloss of the car body, which can also protect the paint surface and water sticker. Since the spray can has a large amount of paint and the paint particles are larger than the oil-based paint particles sprayed with a conventional airbrush, its protectiveness will be stronger after it is completely dry; of course, using a spray can also requires higher skills. The fan surface sprayed by the spray can is large. Be sure to avoid accumulating excessive paint in the same position to dissolve the topcoat. Spray it little by little. After spraying a layer, pay attention to observe the thickness of the paint film facing the light. You can wait for one layer to dry before spraying the next layer, which is safer.
The rear diffuser, side skirts, front lip, etc. can be sprayed with semi-gloss protective paint, which can form a slight contrast with the gloss of the car body and improve the texture and appreciation.

The No. 38 and No. 35 carbon fiber water stickers on the front hood can also be sprayed with protective paint (semi-gloss) of the same gloss as other carbon fiber parts. Since a protective film will be formed on the surface after spraying, you need to use a pen knife to cut the shape along the edge of the water sticker before soaking it in water and then soak it in water to paste it.
Since the engraved lines have been deepened, it is not easy to spray paint particles into some of the engraved lines, so color difference may occur. In this case, you can use Tamiya black engraving liquid (87131) to engrave each engraved line, and then use a cotton swab dipped in a little Tamiya enamel paint X-20 to wipe off the excess engraving liquid. However, the premise of engraving is to ensure that the paint surface is smooth enough. If it is not smooth or there are fine dust particles, the engraving liquid cannot be wiped clean.

The parts of the interior that need to be affixed with carbon fiber water stickers must first be sprayed with black topcoat as a primer, and then the carbon fiber water stickers and other decorative water stickers can be affixed according to the instructions in the manual. In this way, even if there are leaks in some corners, they will not be exposed. Some parts are small in area (such as steering wheels, shift paddles, etc.), and the position and shape of the water stickers need to be gently and repeatedly adjusted. After repeated observation, use a hot air gun to heat it and compact it.

Assemble the engine part according to the instructions in the manual. The position of the oil tank in the middle and rear part of the engine is more important, because this is the part that can leak out after the overall assembly is completed. This part is more challenging for the player's glue dispensing skills, and it is enough to ensure that there is no glue overflow and small parts are not broken. The whole part is also made of semi-gloss black.

The disc lock in the middle of the brake disc is black. When sticking the etched sheet on the disc body, be careful not to apply too much instant glue to avoid overflow.

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